Tuesday, December 18, 2012

A Wine Lover's Weekly Review Of $10 Wine - An Abruzzi, Italy Sangiovese


Copyright © 2012 Levi Reiss
Over the years I have reviewed several Sangiovese wines. That grape is one of Italy's signature reds and is found in such wines as Chianti and in "simpler" wines such as this one. Terre di Chieti IGT wines may be red (40%) or white; the reds need not include Sangiovese. Chieti is in central Italy on the Adriatic coast; an area where 1500 year old pots show traces of wine. Caldora Vini sources its grapes from 800 growers on selected vineyards. The company's headquarters are in the city of Ortona, site of the Battle of Ortona, a World War Two battle between Canada and Nazi Germany, so bloody that it is known as Little Stalingrad. You may prefer to visit the extensive nearby Abruzzi National Park. The companion wine is a fancier Chianti Classico DOCG made by a well-known producer, also based on Sangiovese but at almost twice the price.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Caldora Sangiovese Terre di Chieti IGT 2010 12.5 % alcohol about $10.

Let's start with the marketing materials "Tasting Note : Ruby-garnet color; cherry and berry-spice aromas; medium-bodied, balanced acidity and medium tannins; bright cherry, ripe blackberry, earth and oak flavors, and a medium finish. Serving Suggestion : Drink now with meat lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs. " And now for my review.

At the first sips the wine was somewhat unbalanced with raw acidity but it was long and refreshing. Japanese rice crackers thinned this liquid. My initial meal centered on a boxed Baked Ziti Siciliano that I doused with grated Parmesan cheese. Now the wine was long and slightly sweet. Its acidity was tamed. The accompanying cucumber, tomato, broccoli sprout, red onion, and cilantro salad helped this drink pick itself up and became nice and round.

My next meal involved slow cooked beef. Now this Sangiovese was almost thick, offering oak, black cherries and tobacco in a rustic manner. The accompanying potatoes sharpened this libation's acidity and brought out round tannins. But string beans in tomato sauce shortened and thinned the liquid. Adding a generous amount of Louisiana hot sauce to the meat weakened the wine.

My final meal was not traditional for this kind of red wine. The main component was a baked Atlantic salmon filet marinated in soy sauce, cumin, garlic, black pepper, and Agave. Our Italian friend responded with pleasant acidity, chocolate, and good oak. A delicious home made quiche consisting of cottage cheese, cilantro, Parmesan cheese, and Portabello mushrooms weakened the libation. The other side dish of eggplant, onions, tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, and Portabello mushrooms put the taste of black cherries and some wood in my glass.

Final verdict. I won't buy this wine again. As my old high school geometry teacher used to say, "Close, but we're not playing horseshoes." But it did prompt me to continue non-traditional pairings.

About the author:
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but frankly prefers drinking fine German or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He teaches computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. Check out his wine website http://www.theworldwidewine.com with a weekly column reviewing $10 wines and new sections writing about (theory) and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines.
[Read more articles by Levi Reiss]


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